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Friday, May 22, 2015

Changing the shock mounts on your 2003 Jaguar S-type

Here is the procedure for changing the shock mounts on your 2002 Jaguar S-type. First of all, do you need shock mounts? If you hear a very annoying noise towards the front of your car, either left, right or both, then you might want to look at your shock mount. If after removing the rubber cover you see something like in the first pic below. then you need new shock mounts.The two photos below show a bad and a good shock mount respectively.

Bad Shock mount!
Good shock mount!

You'll need:
Here is the procedure:

First you have to remove the rubber cap that covers the nuts that hold the shock mount in place.

Set up your car and remove your wheel.

Remove the top nuts that secure the shock mount in place.

At the bottom of the strut, remove the big Torx bolt that secures the bottom of the shock to the control arm.

Detach the bolt that secures the upper control arm to the spindle. Hold the bottom of the bolt with an 8 mm socket and 1/4 inch drive ratchet and remove the 18 mm nut with a wrench.

Place the spindle in such a way that there the weight is not pulling on the brake line.

Remove the nut and bolt that connect the front lower control arm to the rear lower control arm. Hold the top of the bolt with a 15 mm wrench like on the pic below and undo the 18 mm nut at the bottom.

Move the front lower control arm out of the way like in the photo below.

Remove the nut and bolt securing the sway bar link to the lower control arm. The bolt is a 13 mm and the nut is a 15 mm.

Now you can pull down on the spindle and fish out the strut assembly.

When the strut is out you can place it on the Jaguar specialty tool below in the following manner. If you don't have a spring compressor available, you can go to a local shop and have the mount replaced for you, for a fraction of the price of the whole procedure since you took it apart and put it together. When you compress the spring, so that the mount is free, just remove the 17 mm nut at the top, note the mount position, pull up to remove, place the new mount at the same position, catch the nut by hand, tighten. Decompress the spring.

Here is a photo of the part number. I like to use original parts whenever I can.

Here is a photo of how the mount looks like by itself. Notice that the hole patern has a special orientation with the strut. Put it together like you found it.

Place the strut back in the car the way you took it out. Note that the threaded side at the bottom of the strut goes towards the front of the car. Catch the top nuts by hand.

Catch the sway bar link bolt and nut by hand first. Then tighten.

Catch the bolt and nut for the front lower control arm next, by hand, and tighten.

Catch the big Torx screw next, and tighten.

Catch the top control arm that connects to the sprindle by hand, then tighten like you took it off.

Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut.

Place the rubber cover back in place.

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

How to remove the intake manifold and replace the heater hoses of your Jaguar XJ 4.0 liter

The title says it, here is how to remove the intake manifold on your 4.0 liter Jag and replace those heater hoses that love to leak.

You'll need the following two heater hoses
For the procedure:

First we need to remove the engine covers and the inake boot.

To remove the intake boot, undo the two 8 mm bolts that hold it to the throttle body and the 5 clamps that hold it to the air filter housing. Then unplug the MAF and the air breather hose that connects to the valve cover.

Now we need to start disconecting the electrical connections that go to the throttle body. From the left side there are two connectors that you need to undo, look at photos below.

From the right side there are another pair of connectors.

Now undo the two TORX screws that hold the throttle cable, and detach the throttle cable from the throttle body. Move it out of the way:

From the back of the throttle body there is a vacuum hose and a cooling hose. Undo them.

Now you can remove the four 10 mm bolts that hold the throttle body in place.

There are two connectors that don't have to be unplugged but they have to be unclipped from the throttle body to make it easier to remove. There is one on each side.

With the four 10 mm bolts removed the throttle body can be moved to facilitate the detachment of the second cooling hose that connects to it.

Now you can pull out the throttle body, make sure you don't loose the metal gasket.

Now we are going to start removing the intake manifold. First undo the fuel lines with the special tools. Lisle 39900 Master Disconnect Set

Then undo the fuel return hose:

Now we need to start unplugging the connectors with a long screw driver. Just push up on the silver clip and pull up gently on the rail. There are eight connectors (one per cylinder, four per side).

Undo the ten 10 mm bolts holding the manifold in place.

There are two more 10 mm bolts holding the manifold at the back, remove them. There is one at each side, way at the back where the throttle body use to sit. There is also two vacuum hoses you need to disconnect from the left side.

There is another vacuum hose you need to undo from the right side.

Don't worry about the other vacuum hose, it attaches to the fuel regulator which is coming up with the manifold so is not a problem.

Now you can fish out the manifold.

This is what your engine and the two annoying heater hoses look like.

Make sure you run to your neares pollo tropical and steal eight napkins to cover the holes of your cylinders. You don't want nothing falling inside the engine.

Removing the hoses is very easy now. Undo them and remove them. Be careful with the plastic connector going to one of the hoses, it loves to break. If it does you might need to replace it.

Clean your manifold with a rag and flip it over. With a pick dig out the eight gaskets and replace them with the new ones.

Here is a photo of the beautiful new gaskets in place :D

Now place the new hoses just like you took them out, if you forgot here is a pic.

Now we are going to put everything back together. Place the manifold in place. Be careful that none of the gaskets fell out of place, otherwise the manifold will have to come out again, do it right, do it once! Also connect the fuel hoses they should just clip in.

The following photo is just to note how you have to be neat with where you place your screws, in groups and somewhere where you won't drop them. If you have bins and labels extra credit! I know how they go by heart so I don't need it.

When the manifold is back in place, catch all the screws by hand first. The ten 10 mm bolts at the top, the two 10 mm bolts at the sides at the back.

When they are all caught and snug by hand, start tightening them. Don't go crazy and break them. Is usually better to start at the center and work your way out. When all twelve bolts are tight start connecting all the vacuum hoses at the sides of the rear of the manifold.

Some sylicon spray makes the job a lot easier now. Connect all the vacuum hoses at the sides (there are four total if I recall correctly)

Make sure everything is in order, nothing looks kinked or in an unnatural position.

Place the throttle body back in place, make sure the gasket is in the correct position, there is only one possible way the gasket can fit. Then catch and snug by hand the four 10 mm bolts. When they are snug, tighten them. Also connect the electrical connectors at the right of the throttle body.

And connect the connectors at the left.

Now connect the cooling hoses (the two of them) and the vacuum hose at the back of the throttle body.

Now connect the throttle cable one more time and catch by hand the two TORX screws and tighten them.

Don't forget to connect your injectors back in place. Place the intake boot back in place. Tighten the two 8 mm bolts and clip it back to the air filter housing.

Before putting the rest of the covers back top up your coolant and start the car. Make sure you don't hear any vacuum leaks. And no coolant is leak.

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