Here in jaghelp.com you'll find articles about Jaguars (and some other cars but mainly Jaguars) from a mechanic that specializes in them. I try to describe exactly how I would go around a job with the purpose of helping people how to understand what they are paying for, or how to tackle the job.
If you read this and disagree, respectfully express your opinion, I will respect it. My proof that this works is experience. A couple of customers do this and it works for them, my boss does it and it works for him, I do it and I see some differences already.
I've been a mechanic for about 7 years now and I wanted to share with my readers some "Secrets" that I've learned over the years. When I was about 20 years old I bought my first car, it was a Mitsubishi Eclipse V6 and I didn't know what the hell I was buying. Eclipses is not that bad but it leaks like there is no tomorrow... I had the car for about 2 years before I became a mechanic. When I did I quickly learned how to extend its life. Let me tell you that my Eclipse made it to 150'000 miles with the tranny never replaced and I traded it in because I could afford a new one not because it wouldn't last longer.
You might be wondering what did you do? Well first let me tell you how did I learn what to do. My boss has about 30 years of experience under his belt. He owned over 5 new cars and a bunch of used ones (for his son and wife). Every time I saw him getting a new car he would change certain things when the sucker was brand new, and I asked why. His brand new GT500 mustang was in the lift, he tells me, my F150 is 10 years old and it looks like brand new right? In all the cars I had none of them had transmission problems, no leaks, and they all outlived their lifespan (lifespan based on when the repairs become so expensive its not worth it). So when I bough my first new car I did all of this. So these tricks are from a guy with 30 years of experience passed down to a guy with 7 years of experience.
For the tricks, I want you to know this is what I do to ensure my brand new car will last me a long time:
As soon as you get the car, replace the transmission fluid for a GOOD ONE. I used AMSOIL transmission fluid. I usually have links to amazon and I get a little kick back when I recommend something, but rest assure that I wouldn't link to something I wouldn't buy. This product is not available on amazon therefore there is no link, but think about it, I'm recommending a product I don't get anything for recommending. Trust me, as soon as you get your car put some AMSOIL synthetic ATF and your Tranny will last forever. My boss showed me a 10 year old car that he put this on day one and the fluid looks super clean, we took down the oil pan and there were no metal shavings like in the rest of the transmissions that I saw with the same mileage.
Your first oil change at 3000 miles, change it and use Motul synthetic. Then change it every 5'000.
There is no such thing as LIFETIME fluid. Nothing last forever. Chemicals lose its properties especially when they are constantly being beaten by a transmission. So no matter what your mechanic, Jaguar engineer, or fuc*ing Obama tells you, follow this schedule:
Change the air filter every 30'000, stay away from reusable filters, every 15'000 take it out and shake it a little bit. Every time you change the air filter clean the throttle housing and the MAF sensor. (If you are by a dusty area like a construction zone or the dessert, then do it every 15'000, is not that hard to change (unless you have a new XK) and they are not that expensive.)
Adding some fuel additive every year doesn't hurt.
Change your fuel filter every 30'000 miles.
Change your A/C cabin filter every 30'000.
Change the spark plugs every 60'000 and only use platinum tipped spark plugs.
Unless you live somewhere where the washer fluid freezes up, use water for washer fluid. If you have to use some washer fluid because of freezing, make sure you use it all in a month, and before putting new one put water and flush it. As nonsensical as this might sound, trust me.
Do not wash your engine. Just get a rag and wipe it, then put armor-all in another rag and wipe the black plastics
Put gas only on clean reputable gas stations. I use shell, and Chevron
When replacing the tires, replace them with the ones that came with your car or better. If your tire is 5 years old, time to change them, no matter how much thread left. Make sure they never sell you old tires.
Wax it every month.
Wash it every week. Two times a week if it is black.
First you have to remove a bunch of plastic covers. Remove the one that covers the top of the radiator (it has 6 clips.) Then remove the bottom splash guard and the black cover after the splash guard which just pulls out.
It will also help a lot to have room so remove the intake air duct, the air cleaner and the air cleaner housing. While you remove all these make sure you are being organized and placing all the screws on bins!
Now we need to put a catch bucket at the bottom of the driver's side of the radiator and disconnect the oil cooler lines. Make sure you catch as much transmission fluid as possible. When the fluid stops draining it would be a good idea to plug the lines with rubber plugs, if you don't have any that fit the lines, then rap then with rags. Make sure you don't loose the O-rings!
Now you need to dispose of the transmission fluid legally! And place two new catch buckets at the bottom of the whole radiator. This are going to be for catching all the coolant, which should also be disposed off legally!
Now you have to remove the 8 mm bolt for the expansion tank, and the hoses that attach to it have to be disconnected. And then remove the expansion tank. Make sure not to break the sensor wire, and also not to drop the clip that attached the bottom hose of the expansion tank!
Now is time to disconnect the cooling fan and fish it out. There are connectors that can be accessed through the bottom passenger side. You have to unplug them and unclip them. Then fish the cooling fan upwards.
Drain the coolant by remove the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator.
Detach the lower coolant hose and catch as much of the coolant as you can! As you disconnect all these hoses you need to try and place them out of your way to the best of your common sense. Don't bend them in a way that they would break, but try and place them in such a way that won't bother you a lot.
Next thing is to detach the power steering oil cooler. It has two 10 mm nut if I remember correctly...
Loosen the condenser retaining studs that are behind the nuts you just removed. When the condenser and power steering cooler are loose make sure they don't hit anything sharp. You don't want to create a leak while fixing one!
Now remove the top radiator retainers, each one has three 8 mm bolts.
Now you can pull the radiator upwards.
Place the new and old radiator next to each other and transfer all the pieces. Don't forget the mounts!
You need to pick the right thermostat housing. It's easy, just look at the coolant temperature sensor (the grey connector at the housing) If it is at the front pick the first one. If it is at the back of the housing (like in the pics of this procedure) then pick the second one.
First remove the engine cover, remove the oil cap (make sure nothing falls inside), turn the four phillip bolts (notice they don't come out) and pull the cover up.
Remove the intake air duct that goes from the throttle body to the mass air flow sensor.
Remove the throttle body. For that you need to clamp the two hoses going to it, remove the hose clamps and carefully wiggle the hoses out without braking them. I like to place all the houses at the side with the weight of the VISEGRIPS, you'll see what I mean in the next pics.
Now is to remove the hoses that go to the housing. There should be two big hoses, two small hoses and a medium hose (if I remember correctly). When all the hoses are detached, carefully, move them out of the way the best that you can. I push them down and to the side. If your sensor is at the front unplug it now.
After the hoses, there are 4 bolts securing the front of the housing to the engine. Remove those bolts. There are either 8 mm or 30T torx screws. With those four bolts removed you can pull the front of the housing and remove it. If your sensor is at the back unplug it now.
With the front of the housing removed you can remove the four bolts securing the intake pipe from the throttle body to the intake manifold. Then disconnect the vacuum hoses at the top and the two screws that secure the EGR to the side. Make sure you catch the gasket from the EGR you don't want to lose that one. With all that removed you can pull the pipe out and it'll look something like this:
Now we need to remove the plastic base (the other part that came with your housing.) Four bolts should do the trick again either torx 30T or 8 mm.
The surface should be clean, but if it isn't clean it with come razor blade and brake cleaner. Then place the new base (just the base it should pull out of your new housing.)
Now place the intake metal part of the intake back. Catch the four bolts, connect the top vacuum hoses and the two EGR bolts with the gasket in between. Placing the gasket and catching the EGR bolts without dropping them is the hardest part of all this. Make sure you have a magnet handy!
Now grease the rubber of the plastic base with any grease is fine.
If your sensor is at the back plug it in now. Place the front part of the housing, catch the four bolts (pain in the as* I know) and tighten them, MAKE SURE THAT THE RUBBER SEAL YOU PUT GREASE ON IS NOT STICKING OUT.
If your sensor is at the front plug it in now.
Catch all the hoses back, if you put new clamps is better but I never find it necessary.
This is a good time to clean your throttle body with some throttle cleaner I recommended!
Place the throttle body back, catch the hoses, make sure you get that gasket seated properly, and catch the bolts and tighten them.
Place the intake hose back.
Place the top cover back. Fill it back up and start it up. Let it run but stay around and make sure is not overheating. Drive it around, let it cool and top it back up. Keep you coolant in your car and check it the next morning and a couple of days after.
If you feel a fuel smell and/or weak start on your XF you might want to check this. The top cover of the fuel pump module tends to leak on these cars. Checking it is very easy! First you have to remove the rear seat cushion, which hast to black levers you can find easily, then pull it up and out. Then pull up the carpet and you can put a stick the way i put the pry bar on the following pic so you can work easier.
When you start the car you might see the leak like this one. Everything was lal wet. The problem was that top white cover.
Taking it out if it is leaking is easy. Just get a screw driver and a hammer and tap the black cover counterclockwise. The just pull it out. Make sure you have a towel or lots of rags so no fuel falls on you cat.
The top cover seems to be the fuel filter.
UPDATE: So I decided to open the sucker to see what was inside and indeed a filter. Also a ground probe which I'm guessing is for static. The part as of today the dealer charges around 200 dollars.