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Tuesday, March 17, 2015

How to change the tuning valve selas on your Jaguar X-type (P0171 and P0174)

A very common vacuum leak on your X-type is the tuning valve seals. Lucky for you they are easy to change and relatively cheap.

Here is what you'll need:
Here is the procedure:
  • First remove the four 8 mm bolts holding them in place. Two per valve.
  • You can unplug and pull the top one right out. Then with a small pick, pull the seal off.
  • Here is the part number for the seal.
  • Place the new seal in place.
  • Use some silicone spray to lube the seal.
  • Now to do the bottom one, it doesn't come out. So you have to remove the seal right there through the top of the valve. Bit annoying but it works and its quick. The place the new seal in place for this one too and spray with silicone.
  • Push the valves back and catch the four 8 mm bolts by hand first. Then tighten.
  • Just plug them in and that's it, you are done. Make sure you clear the faults of the system.

Sunday, March 15, 2015

2004 Jaguar XJ EVAP System: P0442, P0443, P0444, P0445, P0446, P0447, P0448, P0450, P0453, P0453, P0455 and P0456

2004 Jaguar XJ EVAP System

The Evap system on your Jaguar XJ is in charge of recovering the fuel vapors that form on your fuel tank while you drive and while you refill it at the gas station. It consists of:
  • Fuel tank
  • Fuel tank pressure sensor
  • Roll-over valve
  • Charcoal Canister
  • Purge Valve and resonator
  • Canister vent solenoid
  • FTP pump
  • Pipes connecting all the above components
When vapours form in the fuel tank, the car doesn't allow them to go into the atmosphere. They are directed to the Charcoal Canister. This charcoal absorbs these vapours and stores them. When the conditions are right, the computer opens the Canister purge valve and the vacuum of the engine, sucks these vapours into the intake manifold and makes them part of the combustion process that your car uses for power.

The EVAP system has another function, it checks itself for leaks. The EVAP system is designed to protect the environment from fuel vapours, so its logical for it to check itself for problems. The system runs two tests: one while the vehicle is moving and one at idle. While the vehicle is moving the car checks that the Purge Valve is nor stuck neither close nor open and some bigger leaks. While the vehicle is at idle the car checks for really small leaks. These test are run while some conditions are met. These conditions are determined by other parameters on your car: ECT, IAT, engine load, vehicle speed, vapour concentration and purge amount.

The first test (while the vehicle is running): the purge valve closes, and the vent solenoid opens connecting the sealed charcoal canister and fuel tank to the ftp pump. The pump then basically test the system and by creating different pressures while the computer sees the value on the fuel tank pressure sensor. The values have to match certain values inside the program. When this values are not met then codes are set in the computer. Each code description explains what the computer sees.
  • P0442, P0455 big leak detected
  • P0456 small leak detected
  • P0443, P0444, P0445, P0446, P0447, and P0448 purge valve stuck open, close or circuit malfunction.
  • P0450, P0452, and P0453 Fuel tank pressure sensor malfunction
The second test (occurs when the vehicle is at idle stationary or moving at less than 9 mph): this test is basically the same as above but with smaller values, to detect a smaller more precise leak.

Sunday, March 1, 2015

How to change the transmission fluid and transmission filter on your Jaguar XJS

Here is the how to for replacing the transmission fluid and filter on your Jaguar XJS transmission.

Here is what you'll need and products I personally recommend:
Here is the procedure:

  • First you are going to have to set up your car and secure it on Jack Stands.
  • Now you have to remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the plate that covers the transmission gear sensor.
  • With the plate removed you are going to need a 30 mm wrench to undo the transmission dipstick tube. Place a catch pan below the transmission, have rags in hand just in case, and undo the transmission dipstick tube.
  • When you undo it, let the transmission drain on your catch pan.

  • When it stops pouring out, start undoing the six 10 mm bolts that hold the catch pan in place.  Take out the four in towards the front of the car and loosen the two rear but leave them caught, that's to tilt the pan and drain a little more fluid.

  • See the photo below, and how the pan is tilted.


  • When the fluid is done pouring from the tilted pan, remove the last two 10 mm bolts and the pan.

  • The grey box on the photo above is the filter. Is being held in place by three TORX bolts. Remove them and pull down the filter. Make sure you use the right size TORX socket and you don't strip them. I can't remember of the top of my head what size they were.
  • This is a photo of the new filter you bought from the kit I recommended. Make sure you place the ring in place.
  • Lubricate the ring with a bit of the new transmission fluid and push the new filter in place. Make sure that the old ring from the old filter came out. Catch the TORX screws by hand first and then tighten them.
  • Wipe the pan with rags and clean the magnets. All that dirt in the magnets is the wear from your tranny (scary huh?!) but with the fluid I recommended the transmission is virtually going to stop wearing (if you service your tranny again 60'000 miles from now those magnets will still be clean if you use the fluid I recommended). Replace the gasket from your pan with the one that came in the kit.
  • Place the pan back in place, catch the screws by hand and tighten them with a 1/4 ratchet. Don't break them! Also catch the dipstick tube by hand and tighten it with the 30 mm wrench.
  • Catch the plate screws in place and tighten the plate.

  • With everything tight at the bottom, you want to go to the engine compartment and next of your oil dip stick is your transmission dipstick. Fill the transmission with the fluid with a funnel from here. Do it SLOWLY to avoid spilling. First put three quarts. Then start up the car, put it in reverse, then drive, then reverse, then drive, then reverse, then drive and finally neutral. Then check the fluid at the dipstick. It should be at the top of the cold fill level. If is not, add 1/2 a quart and repeat the reverse/drive/neutral sequence and check again. Repeat until the fluid is where is supposed to be.

Thursday, February 26, 2015

How to change the brakes pads and rotors on your Jaguar XJS

Here is a detailed step by step description for changing the brake pads and rotors on your Jaguar XJS. This process also describes how to properly repack your bearings, working with grease is messy so I recommend plenty of rags available.

Products I personally recommend:
 Step by step description

  • First we have to remove the wheels. Set up the front of your car and remove your wheels. Then we have to start removing your brake pads. To do so you have to pull the two clips that hold the pins in place. They are behind the inner brake pad. Pull them with the needle nose pliers. Then with the same pair of pliers pull the pins (grabbing them from in between the pads) towards the inner side of the car. Watch for the clips so they don't jump and hit you in the eye :D.
  •  When you pull both clips and pins place all your brake hardware neatly aside.
  •  Here is your hardware:
  •  Now pull the pads with the needle nose pliers.
  •  Now you have to remove the calliper bolts. They are 19 mm and there are two. Remove them and set them neatly aside.
  •  Then you can pry off the calliper. But make sure you don't have a mess of tools, or parts below, when you remove the calliper a bunch of shims are going to fall. This affect the alignment and are important so save them! Set the calliper aside like in the photo below.
  •  Now is time to start removing the rotor. First you have to remove the dust cap with the tool I recommended at the beginning of the article:

  •  Here is a photo of the tool with the dust cap removed.
  •  Remove the cotter pin.
  •  Remove the nut holder (as you remove this parts set them aside BY ORDER)
  •  Remove the nut, I like to use small channel-locks (recommended at the beginning)
  •  Remove the bearing cover.
  •  Remove the smaller bearing.
  •  Here is a photo of all the pieces you should be setting aside in order of removal:

  •  Remove the rotor, it should pull out easily. Here is the rotor removed.
  •  Remove the bigger bearing and place with the rest of the parts. You need to clean all the grease (here is where all the rags come in handy)
  •  Wipe the spindle clean:
  •  Remove this 5 bolts that hold the brake rotor to the hub.
  •  These are the big bearing and the small bearing. We are going to clean them (with plenty of brake cleaner in the link above.)
  •  Hit it with brake clean until they look like this!
  •  Now place them on the bearing packer and press down.
  •  When you press down the bearing should be packed with grease:
  •  You need to remove all the grease from inside the hub (as much as you can don't go crazy) Then wipe the inside with a rag. Then put a bunch of new grease in there, all around the walls. Now go nuts but leave space remember the spindle goes through this hole, when you place is back the extra grease is gonna be displaced and wasted. Just put around the walls but leave space for the spindle to go through without displacing any grease.
  •  With a wire brush clean the surface where the rotor attaches the hub.
  •  Now place the rotor back in place, and catch the nuts by hand. Then tighten them. Very tight!
  •  Now to put it all back.
  •  Place the bigger bearing back first.
  •  Place the rotor assembly.
  •  Place the smaller bearing (in the right direction)
  •  Place the bearing cover.
  •  Now the nut. Snug it with the small Channel Locks. (this nut goes a bit tight by hand it doesn't go really tight or you'll mess up the bearings. Just SNUG it by hand and the small channel locks. Spin the rotor to make sure it spins freely but with no back and forth play. )
  •  Place the retainer for the nut.
  •  Place the new cotter pin and bent it in the following manner.
  •  Place the dust cap back and Hit THE EDGES with a punch and a small hammer. Don't hit the spheric part of the cap.

  • Now you need to place those rings that I told you before affect the alignment. They go between the calliper and the steering bar. Pry on the calliper with a screw driver and get them in place. Then with a smaller screw driver place it through the hole and align it.

  •  Now place the new calliper bolts in place. Tighten them. These go tight!
  •  Now is time to place the pads back in place. You might have to put the old pads back and push back on the pistons. Make sure you don't scrach the new rotor, pry against the rotor but with the tip of the screw driver stabbing the old brake pad.
  •  Place the new pads in place.
  •  Place the pins through, catching the clips. Then place the retainer clips through the holes behind the inner pad.
You did it. Now if you been reading my articles you know what I'm gonna say: Enjoy a cold beer and go through the other side!

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