This are the things you will need, if you are buying any of them I recommend the link next to it:
- New set of Brake Pads: Akebono EUR910 EURO Ultra-Premium Ceramic Front Brake Pad Set
- New set of rotors: Disc Brake Rotor Ate 40526012237
- Anti seize (optional): Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubrican
- Brake grease: Permatex 24124 Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant
- Brake fluid: Motul DOT 5.1
- Basic tools
- Set of 3/8 ratchet and sockets: ATD-1245 3/8" Drive 6 Point SAE and Metric Socket Set
- Hammer: 32 ounce ball pin hammer
- Screwdriver or prybar: Pry Bar Set
- Suck as much brake fluid out of the brake master cylinder reservoir as you can. Leave the cap off but cover the hole with a rag.
- Crack the lug nuts.
- Lift the front of the car and support in jack stands.
- Remove the wheels.
- Remove the two bolt that hold the caliper in place.
- Remove the caliper.
- Remove the pads.
- Remove the two bolts holding the caliper bracket.
- Remove the caliper bracket.
- Catch a couple of threads on a stud with one of the lug nuts.
- With a hammer hit the rotor until it comes out, the lug nut is so the rotor doesn't go flying.
- With a wire brush, clean the surface where the new rotor is going to seat.
- Putting some antiseize on the surface is not required but recomended.
- Place the new rotor in place.
- Make sure the pins on the bracket are free, if they are not, pull them out, clean them with some WD40 and grease them. Then push them back.
- Place the bracket, catch the bolts by hand.
- Then tighten the bolts. (133Nm or 98ft lbs.)
- Grease the contact points on the new pads with brake grease.
- Place the new pads in place.
- Place the caliper in place.
- Push the caliper pistons all the way back.
- If your pads came with new bolts, catch the new bolts by hand.
- Tighten the bolts.(30Nm or 22ft.lbs.)
- Place the wheel back in place, catch the lug nuts and tighten them as much as possible.
- Do the other side, same procedure.
- Lower the car.
- Tighten the wheels.
- Refill the reservoir with approved brake fluid to the 'max' mark.Then pump the brake and make sure the pedal feels high and tight. Recheck the brake fluid and make sure the fluid is at the 'max' mark. Tighten the cap.
- Now that you have new brakes, make sure you drive slowly the first couple of days, to get used to them and break them in.
Excellent description and illustrations!
ReplyDeletenice article.keep it up.thanks.
ReplyDeleteI have a question, I have a 03 jag x-type awd and my back driver side brake keeps locking up any clue what might be causing this problem. I would really appreciate it if you could give me some insight to this.
ReplyDeletesound like your brake caliper is locked up, you might need a new brake caliper, i ve changed a few of these, but this is a GUESS i would need to see your car to properly diagnose it. If I could fix cars across the web i'd be rich!!!
Deletest Facts about Jaguar X-Type
DeleteJaguar is known to build large and luxurious machines, until the debut of Jaguar X-type in 2002. It made its mark as the company's first compact executive car after the Jaguar Mark 1 in 1955.
The Jaguar X-type became the smallest and cheapest of the Jaguar model range, and it is also the first-ever five-door station wagon manufactured in series production by the company. It was inspired by the very successful world car platform, the 2000 Ford Mondeo (or Ford Contour in the US).
Despite the remarkable attempts of the Jaguar X-type to boost the company's sales, to outshine its competitors, and to make history, Time Magazine placed the Jaguar X-type as the fifth in its "50 Worst Cars of All Time" list for being a costly, poorly engineered, British version of the Cadillac Cimarron. The X-type and the BMW 7-series are the only sedans in the bottom five of the list.
Jaguar Land Rover announced that the production of the X-type would end by late 2009 on July 15, 2009; the same day that the Caspian Airlines flight 7908 crashed in Iran. Over 160 people died in the said crash, while about 300 employees of Jaguar lost their jobs. More than 350,000 units of the face-lifted X-type model were produced before it was completely shut down. This could be attributed to the low sales of the X-type in 2003.
In 2014, Jaguar is expected to release the successor of the X-type to compete with the BMW 3 Series. A cheaper, but more powerful compact car is anticipated to debut as the latest X-type. However, it seems like two new Jaguars-the XF and the XK-are already ahead of this X-type model revival. The 2014 Jaguar X-type is set to return on the road on 2014.
Although the X-type is the most affordable Jaguar ever built, some of the unique options and features of this model include motorized seats, rain-sensing windshield wipers, and a touch-screen DVD-based satellite navigation system. It is also powered by a 3.0-liter engine that runs from 0 to 60 in about 7.1 seconds.
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Ok thank you I really appreciate it...I'll try that and hope it works
ReplyDeletegood luck!
DeleteThis says to 2005. I just had a set of Cross-drilled EBCs arrive and want to replace them in the morning. Is the process the same for the 2006 ?
ReplyDeleteyes, it should be pretty similar, maybe slight differences on the pics but it should be the same idea
DeleteYes the front calipers are the same for all years. The rears are different from 2005...
DeleteNice article, appreciate the time it took to write up. But, what do you use to push the caliper piston back on the front brakes? C-clamp?
ReplyDeleteA caliper retractor tool
DeleteC-clamps work best. Use the old brake pad in between the clamp and piston. and slowly tighten as to not flood the resivor.
ReplyDeleteI agree, if you want you could try a screwdriver and pry it back while the caliper is still in there but it's not recomended, specially if you are not changing the rotors
DeleteExcellent! Nice article.
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for your time, your help and your expertise.
So great to have all the answers to our questions when it comes to X-type +.
Regards,
Jag Lova
NY
Appretiate it!
DeleteI have a 2005 Jaguar X Type with 41,000 miles. I am looking to change the front brakes for the first time. I had read somewhere that the rotors would probably have to be changed the first time also because they wear faster than the back? Is this true? In addition, by pushing the caliper piston in with a c clamp, can the ABS (or anything else) be damaged?
ReplyDeleteThanks.
changing the rotors is always recommended for optimal results (no noise, perfect braking etc) but I'd be lying if I said that it was necessary. What you need to do is check the thickness of the rotor with a caliper and if it is 22.2 mm (this is the spec) or less then you have to change it. If not you can keep them. I recommend a powder coated rotor from the links I provided. You can't damage the abs as long as you stay away from the wire (the wire is not even on the way so don't worry too much). If you follow the instructions you'll be fine. Make sure you use a good pad like the Akebono I recommended on the link. Best of luck!!!
DeleteThank you. I am grateful for your help.
DeleteMany thank,s your advice is second to none really gratefull saved me a lot of time
ReplyDeleteThank you for reading!
DeleteBest description and photo's of X-Type rotor and pad replacement on web. We appreciate your time. My four wheel brake job went fine, rear wheels a little more complicated due to the hand brake cable. ABS sensor and fluid intake lines do not have to be removed to install pads and rotors. I used a coat hanger to support the caliper while working. I would like your insights as to cautions/consequences of forcing the caliper piston back into its cylinder without loosening/removing a bleed screw to allow the fluid to exit. My brakes seem a bit spongy after job and I did not open the system at any point...Why spongy now even after I bled the brakes attempting to remove the spongy feel.
ReplyDeletetry a brake flush. brake fluid is supposed to be changed every two years. Thanx for the many compliments, best of luck!
DeleteNice write up, thanks very much. I replaced all rotors and pads on my '05 X-Type, and all went well with the exception of the passenger side front rotor/pads. Wheel shimmies now, with full pad wear as well (both sides of rotor). Tried re-cleaning rotor w/brake cleaner, no luck. Put old rotor on, still does it. Haven't tried old pads yet, or any wheel bleeding. Pretty nasty shimmy @ 50-60MPH, but can hear it rubbing at any speed. Does not shimmy at all when braking, Like I said, wear marks only on right front rotor (shimmy feels and sounds like it's coming from that side as well). All others seem to wear just fine, and are clean. Any idea of what I'm looking at?
ReplyDeleteif it was the brakes in my experience it would shimmy when you apply them. Since your shimmy is so specific and worst at 50 to 60 mph then I would suspect a tire. Try rotating the tires and see if that makes a difference. Also what brand of pads did you use?
DeleteYeah, I thought of the tire too, but it made no sense that it just came up immediately after replacing the brakes. No problem like that prior. I'll go ahead and try it though. I used Duralast Gold Cmax pads.
ReplyDeletei always recommend akebono but try rotating the tires with the rear one and see what it wants to do.
DeleteI found the issue. Actually, the problem was with the front left rotor. There was a compressed chunk of rust hiding in the shadow of one of the lugs. Knocked it off, and runs like a champ now. Thanks for your help!
DeleteGlad to hear it!
DeleteI have a a 2002 X-Type 3.0 with the larger break rotors. I thought I read that when changing the pads you can't use a clamp to spread the calipers because it will damage a valve in the ABS system. Is it recommended to drain the fluid frorm the caliper before spreading and then replace fluid and bleed the brakes?
ReplyDeleteI've been (and every mechanic trust me) pushing them back with no problem, and never had an ABS issue after. I do not recommend draining the fluid of any part of the system because that will create air pockets and they are hard to get rid off. You don;t want to be driving down the street and have you pedal go to the floor and not stop. There are a lot of things that we are "technically" supposed to do though, like flush our brake fluid every two years.
Deletethis is a brilliant description, who needs the Haynes manual, cheers.
ReplyDeleteThanks!
DeleteI have just changed the back brakes and rotors and found that I needed a driver side rear caliper. That has all been replaced and the system has been replenished and flushed. Currently the LF and RR are the only two getting ample brake fluid as the RF and LR is a very slow trickle. Any suggestions or solutions. All seemed to be working prior to replacement. Currently the Brake pedal is very spongy?
ReplyDeleteFirst of all you have to reflush again to make sure that there is no air trapped in the system. Then what you can do is get a pair of VISEGRIPS and clamp each caliper hose at a time, clamp one and then depress the brake pedal to see if it becomes hard, if not try another until you checked all four. If this doesn't work then I would suspect a brake master cylinder, but I only changed one for this car. Good Luck!
Deletemy brakes jam on when car is heat up dricers wheel goes hot but piston is free what would cause this xtype 2003 2.5 manual petrol 4wd
ReplyDeleteIf the pistons are free, make sure the sliding pins are too. Then bleed the system to make sure the fluid is not boiling or acting weird. Then I would suspect a brake master cylinder.
DeleteAlso make sure non of you hoses are imploding.
Delete