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Wednesday, October 3, 2012

How to change the upper radiator hose on your X-type

Changing the upper radiator hose seems to be very common for X-type owners, so here is a step by step guide With as many pics as I could.
You'll need: Jaguar OEM X-Type Top Radiator Hose

  • Allow the engine to cool, unless you are a bad-ass like me
  • Remove the battery

    • Take out the key and put it in your pocket, then wait 5 minutes
    • Take out the battery cover
    • Disconnect the negative terminal
    • Disconnect the positive terminal
    • Take out the bracket
    • Remove the battery
    • Remove the battery box
  • Remove the air cleaner housing
    • Remove the engine top cover if your x-type is equipped with one
    • Remove the air filter's Phillips screws

    • Remove the clamp from the intake boot to the throttle body
    • Remove the clamp at the side of the intake boot to the vacuum hose
    • Disconnect the air mass meter connector
    • Remove the intake boot and filter cover assembly
  • Remove the air filter, if it's dirty this is a good time to change it
  • Remove the two bolts holding the air filter box to the valve cover

  • Remove the two Phillips screws inside the air filter box
  • Slide the air filter box up, it might seem as if something else was holding it, but you just have to pull, there is a guide at the bottom of it that gets stuck to it
  • Remove the four bolts securing the hood catch, not the bottom two

  • Slide the hood catch forward

  • Place two buckets at the bottom of the car to catch the coolant
  • Now that we have enough space, remove the clamp from the top left of your radiator hose

  • Remove that side of the hose, watch for hot coolant
  • Remove the 8 mm bolt securing the radiator hose to the engine

  • Around the middle, there is a metal clip in the radiator hose, look at the new one for reference. Stick a small screwdriver in the curve and take that metal clip out. Then wiggle that side of the hose out.
  • Remove the clamp that goes to the radiator, at the right hand side, is much easier to do it with the battery out.

  • Remove the hose, very carefully. If you pry or do something dumb you might break the radiator neck and now you are in for a radiator, so use your hands
  • Remove the clamp on the other side of that hose and remove that side of the hose
  • From the top, remove the top 13 mm nut.
  • From the bottom, remove the bottom hose clamp of the rubber hose right below the thermostat, and pull the metal hose down until it detaches. Then remove the upper hose clamp and take that rubber hose out. Watch for coolant falling on you.

  • From the bottom, remove the bottom 13 mm nut, watch for coolant falling on top of you
  • From the top, push the thermostat housing part of the hose down, it should come out easily. Let it fall on your bucket.
  • Take the new hose apart just like we did the old one digging it out, remove the metal clip, and wiggle the right side of the hose out. Remove the middle clamp and and detach the left hand side of the hose out. 
  • First place the thermostat back in place, should be easy and it can be done from the top.
  • Catch the 13 mm bolts and tighten them.
  • Push the small rubber hose to the bottom of the thermostat and place the top clamp.
  • Put the bottom clamp through the metal hose at the bottom, push the bottom metal hose to the rubber hose and place the bottom clamp in place.
  • Place the hose that goes to the radiator in place, connect one side to the radiator and the other to the thermostat assembly. Place the clamps in place.
  • The other side of the upper radiator hose, place one side to the thermostat assembly, and place the clip through the bottom, try not to drop it! Place the other side in place and place the clamp in place.
  • Place the hood catch back in place and place the 4 bolts and tighten them
  • Place the air filter box in place
  • Place the two Phillips inside the air filter box and tighten them
  • Place the two bolts at the top of the air filter box and tighten them, there might be a bracket here if your engine had a cover.
  • Place the air filter back in place
  • Place the intake boot and air filter cover assembly back in place
  • Connect the air mass meter
  • Tighten the clamp that goes to the throttle body
  • Tighten the clamp that goes to the vacuum hose on your left
  • Tighten all the Phillips screws
  • Place the battery box back in place
  • Place the battery back in place
  • Place and tighten the battery bracket
  • Place and tighten the positive terminal
  • Place and tighten the negative terminal
  • Place the engine cover back
  • Place the battery cover back
  • Refill with coolant
  • Check for leaks

9 comments:

  1. PLEASE, PLEASE HELP! The X-Type has these plastic hose fittings/clamps that I have never seen before.
    I cannot get the lower hose fitting/clamp off, even with the radiator out of the car, and even after removing the wire clip.
    I have also been unable to RE-insert the wire clip back into the other, identical, plastic fitting.
    I have spent three hours over the last 6 days, wiggling, persuading, pulling, gently prying on the plastic, spraying penetrating oil and WD-40, and looking on the net, and I cannot get this coupling off the radiator( and it is not a part of the replacement radiator, so it does indeed uncouple).
    There is NOTHING on the net that shows people how to deal with these clamps, including Alldata and all the Jaguar forums, and iatn.
    You would really be helping people a lot if you would tell us, or show us pictures that illustrate EXACTLY how to get the lower plastic fitting/clamp off the bottom of the radiator, and also how to RE-insert the wire that holds the clamp together.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Pictures of the couplings in question may be viewed at this address in jaguarforums.com

    http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-14/x-type-radiator-couplings-how-heck-105674/

    ReplyDelete
  3. FIXED!!!! First, I got a tip to spray the joint with SILICONE spray...and as soon as I read that, it made perfect sense, because you do not use petroleum or lithium lubricants on plastic, you use those on metal connections.
    I combined that advice with Ryan's, plus my own experience. I used a non-metallic striking tool against the lip of the plastic coupler and also tapped the other edge with a non-metal tool, and the coupler came right off in two seconds flat!
    As to the wire retaining clip, I had been fooled by working in poor lighting. When that clip is installed, you cannot see it, except for its tip, which you use to pry it out of the coupler. So in the bad light I had, this I-never-saw-this-before coupler looked like it has the clip running between coupler and the hose nipple (under the coupler). That is not true. The wire retainer runs outside of the coupler, but is sunk into a protruding groove, so you don't see 99% of it. It's very easy to slip it over the outside of the coupler. I checked my work by reinstalling the now-siliconed coupler and trying to pull it off, and it's perfect. Lesson learned, and thank you to everybody.
    Now all I need is a photograph of the torched and bent tool that someone used to successfully remove that one engine oil pan bolt that no one can reach on V-6 X-Types. There are a million forums on the subject, but the people who made the special tools were not successful, apparently, when you read all their comments to the end.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well I'm glad your problem was fixed, even though I didn't get a chance to help you. The trick with those types of hoses is a hook pick and gently pulling on the clip so it releases but does not fully come off the hose, then just pull.

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    2. Hey, here's a link to a post I did about the oil pan gasket and the bent wrench. It worked for me. I have pictures too. Just scroll down. I'm JeffMartinAZ. Good luck with it. Took me a long time, but saves a shit-load.

      Delete
  4. Perfect. I have no idea why Jaguar quoted 3 hours labor for this. I was putting off the job for weeks because if they said 3 hours...it would be more like 10 for me. I had a small crack in the PVC T-joint and had to replace the whole thing. My 2002 had a 13MM on the top and a 12MM on the bottom. A little weird, but oh, well. I also struggled a little with the lower hose. Once that was off, it was pretty simple. Thanks for the help with this.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thank you for the info, I just finished doing this, the most difficult part was "From the top, remove the top 13 mm nut." there's an oxygen sensor in the way and the radiator fan gets in the way as well, but with a little bit of patience and persistence I managed to remove it. Second most difficult was the "Remove the clamp that goes to the radiator, at the right hand side, is much easier to do it with the battery out.", yes much easier with the battery out but still difficult, it's too tight, there's no space to work, granted I didn't use one of those skinny hose clamp pliers, just a regular pair of tongue and groove pliers, but still... - the importance of having the right tool for the job!-. Thanks again!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. yeah a lot of times when i write this articles i get a little upset because i think i make it sound much easier than it is. But the point is it is doable!

      Delete
  6. Just replaced the upper radiator hose on my 2002 xtype awd 2.5l ...It comes all as one piece with the thermostat housing...It went in fine but the plate with the two studs that mounts to the engine, seems to be leaking from the bottom bolt where the plate is attached to the block. I lightly cleaned the metal refining plate that goes between block and plastic tee that has the thermostat attached. My question is did I not clean the metal plate good enough that goes in there. any installation help would be great on why its still leaking at the block connection and refining plate

    ReplyDelete

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