Thursday, August 29, 2013

How to change the rear brake pads on a 2012 Land Rover LR4

Things you'll need and links to recomended products:

  • First of all, crack the lug nuts, then jack up the car, place some jack stands (safety first!) and remove the rear wheels.
  • If your brake fluid reservoir is low, then good! If your reservoir is full or close to full, then you have to remove some of the brake fluid. This can be done with a turkey baster. 
  • I started with the right side: with the thin wrench, the 3/8 ratchet and the 13mm socket crack the bolts holding the caliper in place. The pic shows where to put the thin wrench.
  • With the bolts now removed, pull the sensor like in the pic show, this will most likely destroy the sensor but you got a new one. This step does not apply to the side without the sensor.
  • With the sensor out of the way, pry the pad all the way back with the biggest screw driver.
  • It should look like this with the pad completely retracted:
  • Now remove the caliper, you can use your screw driver if it's stuck. And remove the pads.
  • Remove the old clips and replace them with new ones (if your brake pad set came with new clips, if it didn't skip this step.)
  • This step is often skipped, but you are smart like me so you are going to grease the contact points between the pads and the clips. 
  • Put the pads in place. See what my hand is doing? I'm checking the slide pins to make sure none of them are stuck. The should have some give. If they are completely frozen you have to pull them out with your hand, put a little bit of that brake grease and push them back. You should do this for both the bottom and the top.
  • Catch the new bolts that came with your pads (if there are new bolts if not use the old ones) WITH YOUR HAND.
  • After hand tighting them as much as possible, tighten them with your ratchet. They should be tight enough but don't break the bolt!
  • Now to the sensor, the way I do it so there is no confusion is I unclip the old sensor and clip the new one, then I unclip it at the second point and clip the new one. In other words, I'm sort of "following the sensor". You'll see with the pics.
  • Unclip the sensor at the first point (that's the bleed screw), abd clip the new one.
  • Unclip it at the second point, and clip the new one:
  • Now the third point:
  • The next point, is really close to the third: 
  • All the way back there is the next point.
  • Now you have to stick your hand back there and unplug the old sensor, its also caught with a push pin I pull it carefully out of there. But you have to feel, you can't really see it. When you get the old one disconnected plug the new one in place right away.
  • Clip the sensor to the pad with your hand carefully, otherwise you'll break it and you have to buy a new one.
  • Now do the other side! Just repeat the steps!
  • When you are done, refill your reservoir. Then pump your brake pedal until it's hard. Then recheck the reservoir again. Drive slowly at first and allow the new pads to settle in the old rotors.
Any questions? Comment!


  1. does the brake warning message cancel automatically

    1. yes, you have to drive it a little bit, but with the new sensor it should go out by itself... It usually takes me one spin around the block. Great Question!

  2. I know on my old LR3 that I didn't have to destroy the sensor to change the pads. Is there something about the LR4 sensor that spells destruction if it's removed. Of course, this assumes I haven't destroyed the sensor due to thin pads (I haven't seen the idiot light yet).

    1. If I remember correctly it should be pretty similar. You should always route the sensor exactly the same way that's your biggest concern. Best of luck!

  3. How much do the items cost, and how much time does it take?

  4. Good about the rotors? my rotors look in good condition...very smooth, no line and no vibration when braking.... do I have to change the rotors every time I change the pads?